Dear Rad Jesus,
I was surfing in the morning yesterday at Ocean Beach when I wiped out and got trapped in the breaking waves. As I was trying to breathe, hoping someone would come help before the next big set, two shortboarders sped by, giving me just a quick glance. To my surprise however, a bodyboarder - we surfers call them “boogers” – swam over to me and helped me out of the impact zone and back to the beach. I don’t know if it’s pride, but I feel weird about it. Why did this shark biscuit show me such kindness, while the people I expected to help didn’t? Should I try to repay him, or just let it go?
- Grateful but Confused
Response
Dear GBC,
Dude, your tales of tombstoning on the dawn patrol drop a gnarly lesson, bro. Check it, in a world where every crew’s got their scene, it’s easy to put up walls over little stuff. But the real deal is that it’s not about the sick moves we pull but the radness we share. Your bodyboard buddy might not shred the same stick, but he’s catching the true stoke: being there for a homie, no strings attached.
In the end, kindness ain’t about points; it’s about showing up for the crew, no matter what board or waves they ride. Instead of feeling like you owe him, let this pump you up to be the kind of grom who helps out, even when it’s not on the table. That’s how you Live The Stoke.
Your friend in Stoke,
- Rad
